Dolphins of Greece, 21-29 June

Ok, so some of us get a bit confused about 9 o’clock vs. 3 o’clock, 8 o’clock vs. 2 o’clock, but we yell it out with great enthusiasm! My favorites from our group were the “Over there, by the bird!” and “Look, by the blue buoy!” Fortunately, Joan (almost always) kept a sense of humor about our novice ways. It was an incredible week and I am sad to see it come to an end — even two days of rain couldn’t dampen our spirits or our opportunities to experience the amazing bottlenose dolphins of the gulf. To see newborns and juveniles and their protective moms was beyond description. My favorite “moment” (of many wonderful moments) was to sit quietly amongst a large group of dolphins, to listen to their breathing, to the unique sounds they make as they feed, and to hear and see how they communicate and coordinate with one another. Nothing can compare; it was an almost mystical experience that I wished could continue for hours. I have learned much not only about the dolphins, but also about the complex interrelationships between fishing practices, pollution, fish farms, and the survival of the many species in our oceans. Thank you, Joan, for being such a great teacher and for your passion. The work Tethys and Earthwatch are doing will make such a difference. Thanks also for the opportunity to be a very small part of your efforts. I highly recommend this trip to anyone with interest in dolphins and our oceans!

Lynda, USA

---

Just to have the opportunity to be on the water in this gorgeous location is a pure pleasure, but this total experience exceeded my expectations in all regards. To be surrounded by feeding dolphins while seagulls circled overhead and terns dive-bombed for fish was a magical experience I will never forget. I leave this trip with an increased respect for both the research and the researcher—how Joan could drive the boat while answering questions and at the same time manage to photograph all those animals was awesome. We now know how difficult it can be to identify an individual dolphin, but then Joan made it look so easy. When he could instantly identify a totally unmarked dorsal fin as the juvenile offspring of “Gindra” it made me realize how well he knows the 150 dolphins of Amvrakikos Gulf. And the sea turtles on the last day were amazing! The video selection was a good thing. Never before have I considered what the fish eat that I consume. More “food for thought...” Five people who had never previously met managed to form a good team. I thought I would die when I realized we would actually need to PLAN the meals as well as cook and clean, but that, too, turned out to really contribute to working as a group. Finally, Posi was much appreciated, because every once in a while you really need to pet a dog!

Karin, USA

---

I thought I had made a mistake to come to Vonitsa after I filled out the enrollment forms. I felt I was joining a boot camp, but my experience in Vonitsa turned out to be pleasant and exciting. I learned a great deal about the research done with the dolphins and turtles. The videos shown were informative and mind awakening. I learned more than I had expected and I am glad I came. Joan is very serious with the training and research, which is very important for the type of work done. I am confident and trust that my contribution was for a great cause and effort. I understand the results of this research are made public to the Vonitsa’s community. It is critical to bring awareness to and get people involved in the project, so they feel part of this effort (it is their town), bring possible solutions, and make the project successful. Thank you to ALL of you for doing this job and for bringing awareness of this wonderful world of the dolphins.

Lilia, USA

Premio internazionale per la tutela dei cetacei a Sabrina Giannini, giornalista di Report

Tredici organizzazioni attive nel campo della ricerca e tutela dei cetacei hanno conferito alla giornalista Sabrina Giannini il premio “Cetacean Conservation Star” per il suo impegno nella sensibilizzazione del pubblico riguardo al sovrasfruttamento delle risorse ittiche e alla pesca illegale con reti derivanti, un vero flagello per delfini, balene e altre specie minacciate del Mediterraneo.

Le tredici organizzazioni, che rappresentano circa 400.000 soci, hanno deciso di premiare Sabrina Giannini per il documentario “Mare Nostrum”, realizzato per la trasmissione di RaiTre “Report” condotta da Milena Gabanelli.

Nicolas Entrup, portavoce di WDCS, la Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society, ha affermato: “Sabrina Giannini e i suoi collaboratori hanno documentato il proseguimento della pesca illegale con reti derivanti e hanno chiarito i meccanismi che consentono questo scempio, che spesso avviene sotto gli occhi delle Autorità italiane”. “In seguito a questa denuncia molte reti sono state sequestrate e le attività di pesca illegale sono state interrotte, si spera per sempre, salvando così la vita a molti delfini, capodogli, mante, tartarughe marine e altri animali protetti che cadono vittima di queste reti”.

“Documentare l’impatto distruttivo delle attività umane che minacciano la vita nel mare è di enorme importanza”, ha sostenuto Xavier Pastor di Oceana Europe. “Sabrina e i suoi collaboratori di Report lo hanno fatto molto bene e con grande coraggio, riuscendo a ottenere risultati importanti e sensibilizzando il pubblico e le istituzioni sui grandi problemi legati alla gestione della pesca in Mediterraneo”.

Il premio è stato consegnato da Giuseppe Notarbartolo di Sciara, Presidente onorario dell’Istituto Tethys, nel corso di una semplice cerimonia tenutasi presso l’Acquario Civico di Milano.

Sabrina Giannini ha avuto modo di ribadire il suo impegno e ha affermato: “Per cancellare definitivamente le reti derivanti credo fosse importante mostrare il vero volto dei pescatori che ne fanno uso, un volto diverso dallo stereotipo del bravo e povero pescatore che guadagna il necessario per la sopravvivenza. Si tratta di pescatori che si sono arricchiti, sprezzanti delle regole e dell’etica. Credo fosse ancora più grave la 'tolleranza' e la complicità dei politici del Sud Italia che per dieci anni hanno lasciato operare questi pescatori in una sostanziale impunità, a dispetto dei pescatori onesti e delle specie marine drammaticamente coinvolte. Da quando il servizio televisivo ha fatto emergere l’impunità di cui godevano questi pescatori, mi ha piacevolmente colpita il fatto che ci sia stata una diffusa presa di coscienza, anche da parte della politica e delle capitanerie coinvolte, che stanno eseguendo numerosi controlli e sequestri. Non so se e quanto durerà l’attuale situazione. Ho reso noto alle istituzioni italiane la mia intenzione a documentare questa situazione finché la pesca al pescespada continuerà ad essere fatta con l’uso delle reti derivanti. Potrebbe essere una guerra lunga, ma vale la pena combatterla e il vostro autorevole riconoscimento è un importante sostegno. Per questo ringrazio tutti voi”.

Per maggiori informazioni:
http://www.cetaceanalliance.org/star/Sabrina_Giannini.htm

Delphi's Dolphins 07, 21-27 June

My mother called me one night at school explaining that there was this research program in which I would be allowed to travel to Greece, and help researchers collect data about the dolphins in that area. Of course, upon hearing her words I was screaming “YES I WANT TO GO!’’. I didn’t know what to expect really, this was all going to be a new adventure, and it was. Between the spiders, the storm, and the dolphins I couldn’t have asked for a better experience. Galaxidi is a small little town, that within a day you love as if it were your home town. The atmosphere and people are a real joy, and the bake shop is beyond wonderful (chocolate covered baklava!). The Tethys program is the same as everything else I have said, wonderful. The team here is so welcoming and eager to learn more about you and share their information. They are also the most fun group of people I have met, the conversations and laughs will always keep me smiling. And though we had a hard time finding the dolphins, when we did it was simply amazing. They were jumping and socializing right next to our boat. It was like nothing I had ever seen. I mean you can see dolphins on tv, and in magazines, but to see real wild dolphins beside the boat was incredible. This will definitely be one of my most memorable trips. Between the people and the animals it was above and beyond anything that I could have hoped for. Thank you for everything!

Emma, New York/USA

---

It’s hard to explain in words just how amazing this week has been... you just have to experience it! Everyday has been its own unique adventure: from the sighting of more than twenty striped dolphins and one common dolphin, to the exhilarating ride back to harbor (you are a great captain Silvia!), the predatory events and the rescuing of the sea turtle whose flipper was wrapped in fishing net (Lila, you lucky turtle!). Galaxidi, the town people, the food and my fellow volunteers were and are equally amazing. And, of course, a great big thank you to the Tethys team, Giovanni, Silvia and Aina, your hospitality and teachings are second to none and I have such admiration for the work you do. I can’t wait to come back!

Neysa, Chicago/USA

---

Thank you Silvia and Aina for all the things you teached us and these breathtaking moments we lived. This week was very intense... I will always remember these dolphins playing around us when we were on the boat. I’m going to talk about this dolphin’s project to my friends and I’m pretty sure many of them will want to participate as well.

Emilie, France

Sea turtle rescue off Galaxidi

Yesterday, June 26th, while we were looking for dolphins, Susan (one of our Tethys volunteers) spotted a sea turtle at the surface far away.

We reached the sighting spot and found a loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) entangled in fishing gear. We decided to try to free her from the net, but as soon as we approached with our inflatable, she started to dive. We could see her under the water surface trying to dive deeper, but the net hampered her movements.

For some minutes we lost her. The sea was a little wavy and chances to see her underwater were low. We had almost lost hopes when the turtle surfaced again.

This time we were quicker. We approached her again and I jumped into the water to hold her. She wanted to dive, but with the help of Aina (our research assistant from Spain) and our volunteers, we managed to take her on board. She was really big! About 80 cm long and 60 cm wide.

We covered her eyes to calm her down and we freed her from a green rope 75 cm long that was wrapped around two flippers together with a piece of nylon gillnet including seven floats. The skin was not injured and as we finished removing the rope and net parts she could move her flippers properly.

We made sure she did not have any other problem. She looked fine, apart from a 10 cm wound on the carapace, probably caused by a a former collision with a boat propeller. The wound seemed to have completely healed and a few small barnacles were already attached to that area.

Then we leaned her out of the boat and released her. She dove immediately, but this time she was really quick and disappeared from sight in the blue waters of the Gulf of Corinth.

Some photos of this event can be viewed here

Silvia Bonizzoni

Il whale watching batte la caccia

In questi giorni l’IFAW (International Fund for Animal Welfare) ha reso noti i risultati di uno studio sul giro d’affari del whale watching. Nel 2008 più di 13 milioni di persone in 119 paesi hanno scelto di fare questa esperienza durante le loro vacanze, per un fatturato stimato in 2 miliardi di dollari, il doppio rispetto al 2004. Chi sceglie di viaggiare e conoscere il mondo sceglie sempre di più il whale watching, tanto che nei giorni scorsi è stata avanzata una proposta.

Il cuore della questione è che, secondo molti esperti, la commissione internazionale per la caccia alle balene (IWC, International Whaling Commission) dovrebbe cambiare nome in commissione internazionale per le balene (International Whale Commission). Non sarebbe solo una questione di linguaggio ma un cambiamento sostanziale delle finalità di un'organizzazione che, quando nacque nel 1946, aveva l’obiettivo di regolamentare l’attività di caccia delle balene in modo da garantire che le popolazioni di questi animali non venissero sfruttate eccessivamente. Fu una delle prime operazioni di gestione internazionale delle risorse degli oceani, alla quale aderì anche l’Italia. Fino alla prima metà del novecento la vendita di carne, grasso e olio di balena ha trainato l’economia di molte popolazioni costiere in tutto il mondo, poi le balene sono diventate sempre di meno e alcune specie, come la balenottera azzurra, sono state cacciate quasi fino all’estinzione. Complice l’utilizzo di navi sempre più veloci e di moderni arpioni esplosivi. Nel 1986 è stata ratificata la moratoria internazionale sulla caccia che Giappone, Norvegia e Islanda non hanno mai rispettato, nascondendosi dietro a pretestuosi scopi di ricerca scientifica. Solo un cambiamento sostanziale delle finalità della commissione internazionale (e quindi del suo nome) potrà cambiare il destino di questi animali e rendere la baleneria un’attività illegale in tutti gli oceani.

Mauro Colla

Don't watch this one

Earthlings is a documentary about mankind's dependence on animals for pets, food, clothing, entertainment, and use in experimentation.

The film documents the suffering of animals and some of the dreadful things we do to them. It was made in 2003, but it is still as shocking as it can be.

Few are able to watch it until the end. Most don't even make it to the first few minutes. You don't really want to know about these things.

Don't watch it, and keep pretending that there is no link between what we eat, what we wear, and the unbearable images in the film.

GB

---
Earthlings website and trailer

Earthlings documentary online

Cetacean Sanctuary Research 04, 15-21 June

The immense enthusiasm and passion of all the researchers ensured we had the most amazing experience. We learnt so much about the cetaceans and got involved in all parts of the research which proved to be a really worthwhile project. There were people here that came again and again and we can see why… don’t come here if you want to diet, the food is plentiful and delicious. The sites we saw took our breaths away… sperm whales, fin whales, striped dolphins and even a turtle, we could go on for longer, but we suggest you come and see for yourselves!

Umesh and Sejal, U.K.

---

Since a few years I wanted to realize a dream. So I was looking for a real good trip offered by a scientific organisation with the aim to learn more about the Mediterranean sea life. I’m glad that I made the right choice. The team, the research and the working and being together on board occurred to be much more than I have expected. This beautiful, young, powerful team made it possible that we saw so many, exciting animals. They involved us so well in their work and were never tired to answer our questions. In addition they organised the stay on board so perfectly that everybody felt more then comfortable. Thank you for your showing and teaching us the fascinating world of the Ligurian Sea.

Ruth, Germany

---

Dopo sette (forse otto) volte che vengo a trovare gli amici di Tethys non so più che parole trovare per esprimere l’entusiasmo che ogni volta si prova quando ci si trova di fronte a degli animali così affascinanti. Grazie a tutto il team per la perfetta organizzazione e per l’entusiasmo che hanno saputo trasmettere anche a tutti i partecipanti. Un grazie particolare anche a Roberto per la capacità di interpretare sempre i nostri desideri senza mai perdere la pazienza anche quando, presi dall’entusiasmo, abbiamo intralciato un po’ il suo lavoro. Spero che tutti gli sforzi di tante persone che si dedicano nel comprendere meglio questi meravigliosi animali e l’ambiente che li circonda si concretizzino in progetti di conservazione sempre migliori.

Marco, Italy

---

La zia mi chiede se voglio partire con lei per un settimana particolare e io accetto volentieri. Questa settimana è passata all’insegna della scoperta dei cetacei, un gruppo di esseri straordinari, che vanno dalla vivacità della stenella alla maestosità della balenottera comune. In questa settimana ho passato quindi molto tempo insieme a creature fantastiche e persone molto simpatiche. Spero che questa esperienza si possa ripetere presto

Pietro (15 anni), Italy

Delphi's Dolphins 06, 14-20 June

Since I was a child I admired cetaceans and dolphins especially. I always wanted to be a marine biologist however I did not follow my dream and became a finance analyst. Thanks to Tethys my dream became true: at least for one week in Gulf of Corinth, I could taste the life of researchers and it was the most exciting experience in my life and I definitely will try to come back next year. Having an opportunity to see dolphins in their natural environment was a great privilege and I am very glad that we were lucky to spot an amazing group of 25 striped dolphins. They were really playful and curious like kids, coming very close to boat, swimming under the boat, watching us, and they managed to splash water at us a couple of times. I was having the time of my life.

Zuzana, Slovakia

---

I tried not to expect too much when I came to Galaxidi. I didn’t want to be disappointed and to be honest I really had no idea what to expect. I signed up for the project as dolphins have always fascinated me even as a child and I couldn’t think of a better way of encountering them than to volunteer in research aiming to conserve them. The experience this week was much more interesting and personal than I could have imagined. Our first sighting was of 3 striped dolphins and for me that was enough to learn the importance of conserving the dolphins and above all protecting our entire environment. Also, for my own joy that sighting would have been more than enough. However we were so incredibly lucky as to come across a group of about 25 lively enthusiastic striped dolphins on Wednesday (afterwards we realised that there was also one common dolphin in the group, not so common now). To be allowed to experience their playfulness, beauty and above all freedom in these yet unspoiled surroundings was more than a dream, it was surreal. The dolphin is not a clown, was not born to perform for humans, never chose to work for the dolphinariums all over the world. It is an animal and like we humans our entitled to our freedom so are they. Hopefully someday everybody will realise this. I hope that others who volunteer will experience the same feelings and thoughts as I did and not only enjoy this wonderful time but in their own little way make a contribution to changing the way the world is heading right now. Greece was not unknown to me but on Thursday night we accompanied the team to a dinner with friends in a little Greek village. While the day turned to night, the meat was on the fire, the goats were running by and the company was great. All in all an unforgettable greek night. I couldn’t thank the team enough for the whole experience.

Rebecca, Holland/Ireland

---

I was in the Gulf of Corinth dolphin project for 2 weeks and I had the best time! I was so lucky the first week and even luckier the second as I saw all three species: short beaked common dolphin, bottlenose and striped dolphins! I was lucky as we had two sightings of a group of 20-25 striped dolphins within the two weeks and I got amazing footage of the dolphins bowriding and socialising. It was an amazing trip to see them and then be able to recognise one individual that we had seen the week before!! In the second week it was a bit rough out at sea but I still enjoyed the wave hopping. Thanks to Silvia Giovanni and Aina! I had a brilliant time. I will definitely be coming back soon. Thanks guys!

Hilary, Ireland

---

How to explain? You expect to see dolphins, and it becomes reality. I had two sightings of three and 25 individuals. The group was really amazing, dolphins were coming from everywhere, looking at us, jumping, and even showing off for one of them. I really enjoyed it. But I was also curious about the lectures and help that we could give when being back at home. I liked the analysis part of the job and even if I collaborated only a few days during this project, I appreciated explanations about mission’s goals, methods and analysis given by the staff. Hope you will enjoy the results of your research!

Emilie, France

Dolphins of Greece, 11-19 June

I want to thank Earthwatch and Joan for a remarkable experience. Participating in your project has been an opportunity to visit a beautiful country and to contribute, even on a small scale, to a study that impacts our lifetime and future lifetimes. I am leaving the project with more knowledge than I had when I arrived, and I appreciate this. Once again, thank you, Joan, for sharing your knowledge with us newcomers and for appreciating that volunteers provide extra eyes and hands for your research. Best wishes to you and Tethys as you continue your efforts.

Joyce, USA

---

My heart is full. This has been a wonderful experience. Being on the gulf and being able to observe the dolphins engaging in their natural behavior is a treasure that I will carry with me and share with others. I am also grateful for the opportunity to learn how to recognize the individuals and to crop photos, match and catalogue those individuals. I believe in and agree with what you are doing. Keep up the good work. I also have to mention that I was very grateful to have Posi to come “home” to each day. “Be the change you wish to see in the world”. We must learn to live by these words if we hope to see a positive difference in the state of our Earth. Being a part of projects like these gives us insight into how our every day choices has a definite impact on all aspects of life, and living beings. Thank you again for the opportunity to help make a positive difference. Efkharisto poli!

Arlene, USA

---

Life Changing trip... The lightbulb is certainly on now thanks to this Earthwatch project I had the opportunity to volunteer on. We learned so much! My mind was like a sponge drinking in all that Joan had to teach us during our time here. The documentaries after the computer work were very educational and I will never buy food the same way ever again. Had never seen a fish farm before coming here. The experience of the symbiotic relationship of the seagulls and the dolphins was beautiful. The town and the people of Vonitsa were wonderful. I had a great time with my team members. The learning curve with the computer work was very slight and therefore a fun experience in recognizing the individual animals by their fin. Great Trip! Would highly recommend an Earthwatch group to others. I plan on another project for next year... maybe whales? I am looking forward to the links Joan said he will send to us so we can continue our education and that of our family and friends about these beautiful mammals.

Patty, USA

All good things come to an end

Isn’t it strange how six weeks sometimes feel like a small eternity? That’s at least the impression I have as my time here in Amvrakikos Gulf is drawing to an end. Once immersed in the pleasant routine of combined field and analytic work, everything else fades away and you feel like you have been here forever. Although a cliché, it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that this experience has paved the road for a new chapter in my life.

Professionally, I have learnt and developed tremendously, and have no doubt that this is my ‘path in life’ (to throw in another cliché). Personally, I have had a lot of fun and enjoyed every day out at sea. ‘Conservationally’, I hope that my work will make some kind of contribution to cetacean research.

On my last day we also made a second survey of the site of Kalamos, and the comparison with Amvrakikos is rather striking. This place looks like a paradise, but is unfortunately a paradise in decline, for dolphin-lovers at least. Listening to Joan describing the situation of 10 years ago, it is difficult to believe that hardly any cetaceans or marine mega fauna remain.

Being able to follow your beliefs and passions as part of your work is a privileged few are entitled. I thus feel doubly grateful for having had the opportunity to work with Tethys as a research assistant. A special thanks is due to Joan and Giovanni, whose guidance and support have made my time here not only possible but also challenging and exciting. Bon courage for next week Joan!

Christina Geijer

The science of whales?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCp0lla317g

Thanks to this short documentary posted on YouTube, titled 'The Science of Whales', we learn that whales are magnificent and tasty fish.

We are informed that these animals are 'scientifically delicious' and that, surprise, 'whales do not develop immunity to harpoon'.

The whales' natural predator? The scientific whaler, of course.

If the English translation was accurate, this would be a gem.

However, comments by some YouTube viewers suggest that the subtitles in English have been intentionally manipulated to make this promo look totally unintelligent and whaling even more outrageous than it already is.

Giovanni Bearzi

HOME is still there

It appears that the amazing film HOME has not been removed from the web after June 15th, as anticipated. It can still be viewed online, and those of you who have not had a chance so far should consider viewing.

The movie is avalable in English, German, French, Spanish, Russian and Arabic.

http://www.youtube.com/homeproject

GB

Cetacean Sanctuary Research 03, 08-14 June

Loving the sea means also loving the animals there. Now we got the possibility to see for the first time the “big ones”. During this wonderful trip we explored the sea life in a very different way – not only watching them. This time we were able to get in touch with scientific research and tried to help the hard working team of researchers. Next to their hospitality, they shared some insights with us – which we will distribute. We will tell the stories of “Pelagos” and the beloved research subjects to our friends. Watching now differently the sea while sailing we are sure to meet them again some where at sea.

Mirjam and Markus, Austria

---

I HAD A DREAM, als Kind hat man oft den Traum als Forscher ueber die Meere zu Reisen. Die Zeit auf der Palagos hat mir die Moeglichkeit geben diesem Traum ein wenig naeher zu kommen. Es war eine tolle Zeit mit netten Leuten, Sonne, Wind, sehr gutem Essen und vor allem den Delfinen und Walen. Es ist ein Erlebnis wenn die Delfine wie Torpedos um das Boot gleiten oder der Finnwal unbeirrbar seine Kreise durch das Meer zieht. Vielen Dank fuer das einmalige Erlebniss.

Heidi, Deutschland

---

Santuaro dei Cetacei parte seconda. Dopo la fantastica esperienza di tre anni fa alla ricerca dei capodogli ho deciso di riprovarci con le balene, e anche questa volta ho fatto centro. Oltre all’avvistamento di ben sette balenottere comuni, mi sono trovato veramente bene con le persone che hanno condiviso con me questa fantastica esperienza, a partire dai ricercatori capitanati dall’instancabile Caterina, passando per il saggio Roberto e arrivando infine all’equipaggio che, nonostante origini ed esperienze diverse, è riuscito a divertirsi e a dare il massimo in ogni situazione. Un sincero ringraziamento a tutti e un arrivederci a presto.

Filippo, Italy

Istituto Tethys ONLUS

Dopo quasi due anni di interminabili trafile burocratiche, la lunga transizione per diventare ONLUS si è conclusa e ora Tethys lo è a tutti gli effetti.

---

La genesi di Tethys

La storia associativa di Tethys

Lo Statuto di Tethys onlus

Andrea Catherwood joins the Tethys team at Vonitsa

What an incredible experience. Looking out across the Ionian sea at such a idyllic Greek postcard perfect scene it isn’t hard to believe there are dolphins here, but I was still unprepared for the huge thrill of observing them at such close quarters as they feed, socialise and occasionally perform aerobatics.

I feel totally immersed in another world both on water and at the field station where we live. I admit to taking a nerdish delight in learning to crop and match the photos of dolphin fins that are used to identify the dolphins we see each day and that help with the research being done to try and protect these vulnerable animals. It’s a long time since I absorbed such a lot of new information and enjoyed myself so much at the same time.

The chance to live and work with a scientist as knowledgeable and charismatic as Joan Gonzalvo is a real privilege. His passion for marine mammals and protecting their habitat is infectious. The arguments against pollution and overfishing that are ruining this precious environment are overwhelming. I hope that through the work of Earthwatch and their partner organisations the dolphins will survive here in the Amvrakikos Gulf and elsewhere, but that depends on real action to reverse current unsustainable levels of commercial fishing which have, for example, decimated the nearby dolphin population at Kalamos by robbing them of their food.

I don’t want to show the photographs of this amazing trip to my children when they’re older and say ‘Did you know that back in the olden days there used to be dolphins in the Mediterrenean.’

Andrea

---
Andrea Catherwood is a British broadcaster and journalist writing a travel article for the Independent on Sunday newspaper.